31.5in Freewing Bubles PNP (EPO Foam)

Product Rating:

Product Review (submitted on September 11, 2014):

Update of review
I replaced the motor to the HK C20 adding a TON of power, after much work I have gotten the plane to fly and do so well. The Vert. Stab is WAY to large (This is a Multiplex Merlin clone, not a knock off but 100% a clone) The Merlin has a major issue and that in the fuse/Vert. Stab, they made the Vert. Stab way to large and didnt want to change the molds so the just changed the Hor. Stab making it a Full flying elevator to correct some of the poorly designed aerodynamics. The problem is the Rudder/Vert. Stab is TO LONG and causes uncontrollable death spirals that no matter what you do can not be over come even from way up high once it starts it doesnt matter the air speed the control surfaces DO NOT get air flow and you can not over come it (Once again Im a competition level 3D plane and Heli pilot)

What you have to do to get this plane to fly is number one cut the top of the rudder/Vert. Stab 1/2in then fly it if it still trys to tip stall even at speed and wants to roll nose down land and cut another 1/4in off and fly again and keep doing this UNTIL you start to get adverse yaw in a banking turn then add a little back 7/8in is what mine took to fly perfect. The plane is a ball now on 2 or 3S, with the C20 on 3S its no longer a warm liner its a small HOT LINER, GPS was 93.6MPH level flight on this setup. The C20 on 3s is awesome because you have close to a 2 to 1 power to weight ratio and you can use thrust to pop up the nose and accelerate vertical.

Im enjoying this plane very much now its a fun and VERY fast park flyer that flys VERY well now, Hands off level flight when before the moment you started a bank no matter the speed and use of rudder it would drop the right wing and death spiral out of the air. The C20 on 3S makes a perfect fast flyer for VERY Experienced pilots and will be FAR to much for even intermediates. Its a cheap but good quality plane that WILL NOT FLY STOCK, once you mod the Rudder then you will have a plane that flys really well on the stock motor if you want a rocking fast pylon racer that can handle all the G's you throw at it run a C20 on a 30 to 40C 3S 850 and you will drop your jaws watching how fast it is. Last thing the stock servos ARE NOT able to provide the torque, speed, resolution or centering when running this plane on a C20/3S setup, the torque is not enough in level flight with that setup you will have crazy control surface lag while the servos struggle to move the control surfaces at anything above 3/4 throttle and forget about it in a power on dive the surfaces will all but lock up under the load remember this setup is good for over 90MPH level flight, Using GPS telemetry on my Futaba 18MZ thats dead on accurate. I swapped the Servos over to, RotorStar RS-2125MGC the servos alone cost more then the plane but WOW they are awesome servos a little big and need some fitting and slightly heavy but with the huge power increase the extra weight helps stability so the weight is a plus. They are 250 to 450 size 3D heli servos and I have a bunch of them laying around, The best micro servos on the market, I Fly MKS Brushless Digitals on everything thing but when it comes to Micro servos I ONLY fly the Rotorstars, and it doesnt matter how many times you crash them the servos will still be fine so they are very much worth the money. Ill post some Videos with the C20 40C Optipower 3S 850. In going to change the motor over to a Hyperion ZS2205-34 motor making 150W of power to see if it can handle 140 to 150MPH straight line Ill post videos on YT and we will see it either flying level around 145+MPH OR it will break apart mid flight one way or the other it will be spectacular.